I got this email from Joe yesterday, thought it would a good idea to post it up on here and get you guys to help him out. Check out what he’s got to say below then if you can assist him, leave a message in the comments!
“hey so ive been building and riding a lot recently at a little spot by my house, but im having some dirt issues hah. so i guess what im asking is where do you guys get the clay thats at your places? or is it all just there naturally? do i just need to dig a little deeper? ha. if not, what can i do to get the dirt i have to harden?”
March 17th, 2010 at 5:50 pm
hey man,
just keep diggin around mate, we have 3 different clay pits at ours – all about 2ft below the surface but so worth it once you find it. dig dig dig dig diggin…!! that’s the secret. even if you only find a little bit, mix it around with other soil and sweet lips will be all yours.
Clay minerals are typically formed over long periods of time by the gradual chemical weathering of rocks, usually silicate-bearing, by low concentrations of carbonic acid and other diluted solvents. These solvents, usually acidic, migrate through the weathering rock after leaching through upper weathered layers. In addition to the weathering process, some clay minerals are formed by hydrothermal activity. Clay deposits may be formed in place as residual deposits in soil, but thick deposits usually are formed as the result of a secondary sedimentary deposition process after they have been eroded and transported from their original location of formation. Clay deposits are typically associated with very low energy depositional environments such as large lakes and marine deposits.
Primary clays, also known as kaolins, are located at the site of formation. Secondary clay deposits have been moved by erosion and water from their primary location.
Clays are distinguished from other fine-grained soils by differences in size and/or mineralogy. Silts, which are fine-grained soils which do not include clay minerals, tend to have larger particle sizes than clays, but there is some overlap in both particle size and other physical properties, and there are many naturally occurring deposits which include both silts and clays. The distinction between silt and clay varies by discipline. Geologists and soil scientists usually consider the separation to occur at a particle size of 2 µm (clays being finer than silts), sedimentologists often use 4-5 μm, and colloid chemists use 1 μm.[1] Geotechnical engineers distinguish between silts and clays based on the plasticity properties of the soil, as measured by the soils’ Atterberg Limits. ISO 14688 grades clay particles as being smaller than 2 μm and silts larger.
Depending on the academic source, there are three or four main groups of clays: kaolinite, montmorillonite-smectite, illite and chlorite. Chlorites are not always considered a clay, sometimes being classified as a separate group within the phyllosilicates. There are approximately 30 different types of “pure” clays in these categories, but most “natural” clays are mixtures of these different types, along with other weathered minerals.
Varve (or varved clay) is clay with visible annual layers, formed by seasonal differences in erosion and organic content. This type of deposit is common in former glacial lakes. When glacial lakes are formed there is very little movement of the water that makes the lake, and these eroded soils settle on the lake bed. This allows such an even distribution on the different layers of clay.[3].
Quick clay is a unique type of marine clay indigenous to the glaciated terrains of Norway, Canada, Northern Ireland and Sweden. It is a highly sensitive clay, prone to liquefaction, which has been involved in several deadly landslides.
Peace out…
March 17th, 2010 at 5:52 pm
beat the hell out of it with a shovel until your wrists hurt and its dark.10 times.
March 17th, 2010 at 6:23 pm
i totally agree with the scinetific explination mainly because its scinentific but also cos its the same as us we have a couple of pits at my woods all spread out and fairly deep just to find clay
March 17th, 2010 at 7:40 pm
we must be lucky we got clay everywhere, you gotta dig down a foot to get to it tho. To get it to harden you need to campact it as much as you can by beating it or running a barrow up it or whatever, then let it dry out a bit, but not too much cuz it might crack
March 17th, 2010 at 8:58 pm
I found my clay on craig’s list.
March 17th, 2010 at 9:12 pm
at my local trails in kent you are hard pushed to find mud that isnt cley. this is a mixed blessing though its good like its easy to shape and stays strong but in winter it gets soo water logged like digging in a marsh and summer some times it gets soo dry it just turnes into dust and just crumbles. we do water in summer but 42 jumps in the middle of nowhere is impossible to get enuff water to keep the all at their best
March 17th, 2010 at 9:24 pm
will if you wrote that you deserve a medal. (blatant wiki-rape)
yeah,our soil is bunday, everywhere at the top of the woods, you cant get a spade down without hitting rock, but further down the hill and to the far side, 2 spades in and you have magic pink clay, (similar to digmore, i will have to consult with william and do some samples) whatever you build this tuff should go on the top, a good amount of it oo, otherwise it will dry/flake off, go spongy… then beat the hell out of it like chuck norris beats women, then water that shit, sweep it, let it dry and you will have pritiiiine lip time baby.
holla x
March 18th, 2010 at 2:08 am
Im obsessed with clay, I look at it like porn. What kind of soil do you have now? I live in Illinois which is made of several soils. We have Orange/red clay, brown/yellow clay, and blue/grey. If you can find the orange/red thats your best bet. the yellow is buttery and softer, and the blue is harder like a slab of meat.
Here its spot oriented, some spots all one color clay, some black dirt. The black dirt topsoil can be hard to work with, but keep digging.. ive had to dig 12 feet to hit clay before. working with it is easy, try stacking shovel fulls that keep the shape of the head don’t just toss the dirt or pile it when your doing the shaping. after you get the basic shape stacked up just wet it with a watering can lightly, then keep a bucket full of water near to dip your flathead in to keep it from sticking while your slapping jumps. If the dirt is too powdery try mixing/chopping it up it with water in a wheelbarrel first. Best to work with super wet mud then let it dry out for a day or two before re watering and slapping. hope it helps.
March 18th, 2010 at 2:09 am
Forgot also clays are more likely to be on the shores of creekbeds where the force of the water has compacted the land.
March 18th, 2010 at 7:24 pm
just dig down!something will be there.both our spots we have down wiltshire/hampshire are chalk though.we love the chalk as once you have given it the beating of a life time it normally lasts summer with minimum maintance.what ever you have to build with it will be down there somewere!
March 18th, 2010 at 8:28 pm
clay is god for shaping because you can get it seriously hard but it cracks like a bitch, our trails you dig half a spade and your at clay, you dig 2 ft and you get to blue clay and another 2ft you get to rock, just dig around but i think its mainly to do with the soil type in your area, you could always ship it in?
March 19th, 2010 at 12:05 am
hey i just want to say thanks for everything you guys have been putting up. its helping a ton, and we’re still digging for clay. say your prayers for us haha.
thanks again,
JOE
March 19th, 2010 at 4:52 am
if you really can’t find any in the end, this stuff might help if you can get your hands on some, we got luck and were given a few jugs ’cause it’s hard to find at our trails too..
http://www.soiltac.com/
March 23rd, 2010 at 10:21 am
We dont have any clay out our trails. The soil is a mixture of sand and rubble down deep with about 2 – 4 ft of decent top soil. The benefit is that its easy to build but a bitch to maintain in the summer. We always save the darkest dirst we have for lips and make sure we pack them in hard when they are wet and leave them to go off for at least a week before riding them.